The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Chronograph reference 7968/300R-001 is a 39.9mm luxury sports watch crafted from 18k rose gold, marking the collection’s first self-winding chronograph. The timepiece is characterized by its vibrant “rainbow” aesthetic, achieved through a double-row gem-set bezel featuring 40 baguette-cut diamonds on the inner row and 40 multicolored sapphires on the outer row. The dial is made of white mother-of-pearl engraved with the signature Aquanaut motif, further accented by 12 multicolored sapphire hour markers and rose gold applied Arabic numerals. With a slim profile of 10.37mm and water resistance up to 30 meters, the watch is delivered with three interchangeable composite rubber straps in red, matte beige, and matte white, all secured by a diamond-set fold-over clasp.
The watch is powered by the in-house Caliber CH 28-520 self-winding movement, which features a vertical disc clutch and a flyback chronograph complication. This technical setup includes a central chronograph seconds hand and a large 60-minute counter positioned at 6 o’clock. The flyback function allows the wearer to reset and restart a timing measurement instantaneously with a single press of the pusher at 4 o’clock, even while the chronograph is running. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a power reserve ranging from 45 to 55 hours, all of which is visible through the sapphire crystal case back.
General reviews of the 7968/300R-001 often highlight Patek Philippe’s masterful execution of the “invisible setting” technique, which enhances the seamless color transition of the rainbow bezel. While officially marketed as a ladies’ timepiece, many collectors and critics praise its nearly 40mm case size as being versatile and well-suited for any gender. Reviewers frequently note that while the watch follows modern gem-setting trends, it maintains horological integrity by incorporating a sophisticated mechanical movement rather than quartz. Some commentary points to the watch’s bold, maximalist design as a departure from the brand’s traditionally conservative style, though it is widely regarded as a successful fusion of haute joaillerie and sporty utility.