The Formex Essence 39 Automatic COSC Blue (0339.1.6631.101) is the current steel version of Formex’s best-selling Essence ThirtyNine. Its 316L stainless steel case measures 39 mm in diameter, 10 mm in height and 45.5 mm lug to lug, with a 20 mm lug width, and it weighs 65 g as a case alone or 139 g on the bracelet. The case and bezel are vertically brushed with hand-finished, mirror-polished bevels. The blue dial has a vertical brushed finish and signature horizontal grooves that are CNC-machined one line at a time, with faceted hands and applied indices filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9. Sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment are fitted front and back. It is powered by the Swiss Sellita SW200-2 Power+ automatic in chronometer grade, with 26 jewels, a Glucydur balance, a 65-hour power reserve and individual COSC certification. A screw-down crown gives 100 meters of water resistance.

The watch shows hours, minutes, central seconds and a colour-matched date at 6 o’clock in a bevelled window. Its defining feature is Formex’s patented Case Suspension System, used since the brand’s founding in 1999: four springs between the upper and lower case absorb shocks and let the case flex with the wrist. The movement carries a custom skeletonised rotor with thermally blued screws, and Formex re-tests the rate after assembly to the same criteria as the COSC. The solid-link steel bracelet has a quick-release system and a patented on-the-fly micro-adjustment of 0, 3 or 6 mm; straps use a carbon fibre composite deployant clasp with its own fine adjustment. Formex lists this configuration at USD 1,980 including tariffs, duties and shipping, or USD 1,850 on a strap.

Reviewers consistently single out the Essence ThirtyNine’s case: WatchClicker praised its sharp angles and clean transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, and owners describe the finishing as beautiful. The suspension system is generally seen as the key comfort feature, with buyers who doubted it at first reporting that it makes the watch noticeably more comfortable over time. The main drawback reviewers mention is that the curved case and shallow lug area limit strap swaps to Formex’s own straps and bracelet. The Essence 39 Automatic COSC Blue is a new reference, currently in production and available on Formex’s official store.