The Golden Ellipse was launched by Patek Philippe in 1968, and its case shape is based on the golden section, a proportion of 1 to 1.6181. The reference 3738 is the automatic version of the design and one of the longest-running Ellipse references. Its production began in 1978, and it was made in several series: the first from 1978 to 1988 with the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240, a second from 1984 to 1999 with the calibre 240 31, and later series with the calibre 240 111 from 1999 and from 2005. The case is an elliptical form in 18k gold, 32 by 36 mm for the 3738J, while the 3738/100 variant measures 31 by 35.5 mm. The dials are plain, with applied gold baton markers and hours and minutes hands only.
When it debuted, eight years before the Nautilus, the Ellipse had an oval shape unlike anything else in the Patek Philippe catalogue. The 3738 brought that shape together with the thin calibre 240 automatic movement, which allowed a slim, flat dress watch. The 3738/100 version was launched in 1984 in 18k yellow and white gold, with pink gold added from 1988. Its large dial and narrow bezel make the watch wear larger than its dimensions suggest, which is why it is often described as a unisex model.
Collectors and dealers see the Golden Ellipse as emblematic of late 1960s design and as one of the brand’s lasting icons. Its standing has not always been high: dealers note that it fell out of favour as steel sports watches took over the market, and that many gold examples were melted down for their metal value, which makes clean vintage pieces less common than its long run would suggest. The 3738 has been followed by the larger reference 5738, which carries the Golden Ellipse line on in the current Patek Philippe catalogue, so the design itself remains in production more than half a century after its launch.
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