MB&F, short for Maximilian Büsser & Friends, is a Swiss independent luxury watch and clock manufacturer established in July 2005. Headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland, the company defines itself as a horological concept laboratory rather than a traditional watch brand. Its primary mission is the creation of small series of radical concept watches, often referred to as kinetic art or three-dimensional mechanical sculptures for the wrist.
The brand was founded by Maximilian Büsser, a Swiss national with a background in micro-technology engineering. Before launching his own venture, Büsser held significant leadership roles within the Swiss watch industry, including a seven-year tenure as managing director at Harry Winston Rare Timepieces and a senior management position at Jaeger-LeCoultre. His experience at Harry Winston, particularly the development of the Opus series, served as a foundational catalyst for the collaborative model used at MB&F.
The “Friends” in the brand’s name refers to the company’s transparent business model of collaborating with independent horological professionals. Unlike many luxury houses that keep their suppliers and designers confidential, MB&F explicitly credits every individual and company involved in a project, including movement designers, case manufacturers, and photographers. This collective approach has allowed the brand to draw from a wide pool of specialized talent across the industry.
Enthusiasts are often drawn to MB&F because of its departure from traditional watchmaking aesthetics. While conventional Swiss horology typically focuses on round cases and flat dials, MB&F creates three-dimensional “machines” that often resemble spaceships, aquatic life, or automotive engines. This focus on “kinetic art” over simple time-telling appeals to collectors looking for unconventional designs and high-level mechanical complexity that challenges the status quo.
The brand’s catalog is divided into two primary collections: Horological Machines and Legacy Machines. Horological Machines (HM) are characterized by their futuristic, often biomorphic or architectural designs. Legacy Machines (LM) represent a reinterpretation of traditional 19th-century watchmaking, featuring round cases and traditional finishes but with radical technical layouts, such as suspended balance wheels positioned above the dial.
A defining key piece for the brand is the Horological Machine No. 1 (HM1), launched in 2007. This debut model featured a three-dimensional architecture with two separate dials for hours and minutes, linked by a central tourbillon. Another significant model is the HM4 Thunderbolt, which was inspired by aviation and featured a jet-turbine-shaped case with time indications displayed on vertical pods, further establishing the brand’s reputation for non-linear design.
In the Legacy Machine collection, the LM Perpetual is a notable key piece. Developed with watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, it reinvented the perpetual calendar complication by using a “mechanical processor” instead of the traditional space-consuming grand levier system. This innovation earned the brand the Calendar Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2016, showcasing the brand’s ability to innovate within classical complications.
The LM FlyingT, introduced in 2019, represents another milestone as the brand’s first dedicated ladies’ watch. It features a vertical architecture with a central flying tourbillon and a small, 50-degree tilted subdial for the time. This piece highlighted the brand’s versatility in adapting its three-dimensional design language to a different aesthetic while maintaining its signature mechanical complexity.
Beyond wristwatches, MB&F is known for its “Co-Creations,” which are mechanical art pieces such as table clocks and music boxes created with partners like L’Epée 1839 and Reuge. These objects often follow themes similar to the watches, depicting robotic figures, spiders, or rockets. To display these works alongside other mechanical art, Büsser established the M.A.D. Gallery in Geneva, which has since expanded to locations in Dubai, Taipei, Singapore, and Paris.
In 2024, the French luxury house Chanel acquired a 25% stake in MB&F, though Maximilian Büsser remains the majority shareholder and creative lead. As the brand approaches its 20th anniversary in 2025, it continues to operate as a niche independent manufacturer, producing a limited number of pieces annually—approximately 350 in 2022. The brand maintains a high degree of vertical integration, crafting roughly 70% of its cases and various movement components in-house in Geneva.
