Hublot is a Swiss luxury watchmaker headquartered in Nyon, Switzerland, recognized for its modern approach to horology and unconventional use of materials. Founded in 1980, the brand has established a distinct identity within the industry through its “Art of Fusion” philosophy. This concept focuses on the combination of traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques with avant-garde materials and contemporary design aesthetics, positioning the company as a prominent name in the high-end watch market.
The brand was founded by Carlo Crocco, an Italian watch entrepreneur and scion of the Italian Binda Group dynasty, known for Breil watches. In 1976, Crocco left his family business to create an independent watch company, moving to Switzerland to establish MDM Geneve. His vision was to create a timepiece that departed from traditional horological schemes, drawing inspiration from the nautical world. This led to the development of a watch named Hublot, the French word for “porthole,” which debuted at the 1980 Basel Watch Fair.
A defining characteristic of Hublot’s early success was Crocco’s radical decision to pair a gold case with a natural rubber strap. This combination was unprecedented in luxury watchmaking at the time, as rubber was typically associated with inexpensive sports watches. It took three years of research and development to create a strap that was comfortable, durable, and aesthetically suitable for a high-end timepiece. Despite an initial lukewarm reception at its debut, the design quickly achieved commercial success and became a hallmark of the brand.
Enthusiasts are often drawn to Hublot for its bold and disruptive design language. The brand’s watches are characterized by large case sizes, visible screws on the bezel, and a robust, industrial appearance. Collectors appreciate the company’s willingness to experiment with innovative materials that are rarely used by other manufacturers. This includes the development of Magic Gold, a scratch-resistant 18k gold alloy created in collaboration with the EPFL, as well as the extensive use of carbon fiber, brightly colored ceramics, and sapphire crystal for entire watch cases.
The trajectory of the brand shifted significantly in 2004 with the arrival of Jean-Claude Biver as CEO. Biver, a veteran of the watch industry with previous experience at Omega and Blancpain, revitalized the company by formalizing the “Art of Fusion” concept and increasing focus on marketing and brand visibility. Under his leadership, and subsequently that of current CEO Ricardo Guadalupe, Hublot transitioned from a brand primarily producing quartz watches to one focused on high-end mechanical movements and complex complications.
The Big Bang collection, introduced in 2005, is Hublot’s flagship line and remains its most recognizable series. The Big Bang Chronograph was an immediate success, winning numerous design awards and significantly increasing the brand’s global sales. It is defined by its multi-component “sandwich” case construction, which allows for various combinations of materials such as titanium, ceramic, and carbon. The collection has since expanded to include various sizes and complications, including the Unico series featuring an in-house flyback chronograph movement.
The Classic Fusion collection serves as a more refined and understated alternative to the Big Bang, paying homage to the original 1980 design. While it retains the signature porthole-shaped case and bezel screws, it features a slimmer profile and simpler dial layouts. This collection is available in a wide range of materials, including titanium and “King Gold,” and is often paired with either rubber or leather straps, maintaining the brand’s original DNA while appealing to those seeking a more traditional luxury aesthetic.
Hublot also produces high-performance and avant-garde pieces such as the King Power and the Spirit of Big Bang. The King Power collection, launched in 2009, features larger 48mm cases and more complex mechanical constructions. The Spirit of Big Bang, introduced in 2014, utilizes a tonneau or barrel-shaped case while incorporating the design elements of the Big Bang series. Furthermore, the “Exceptional Timepieces” or MP (Masterpiece) collection showcases the brand’s technical capabilities through extreme complications, such as the MP-09 with a bi-axis tourbillon.
The brand’s global prominence is further supported by extensive partnerships in the world of sports and culture. Hublot was the first luxury watch brand to enter the world of football, becoming the Official Timekeeper for the FIFA World Cup, the Premier League, and major European clubs. The company also maintains a long-term partnership with Ferrari and has collaborated with world-renowned artists like Richard Orlinski and Shepard Fairey. These alliances often result in limited-edition timepieces that reflect the specific aesthetics or technical requirements of the partner.
In 2008, Hublot was acquired by the French luxury conglomerate LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton), joining a portfolio of prestigious watch brands including TAG Heuer and Zenith. This acquisition provided the resources for Hublot to expand its manufacturing capabilities in Nyon, where it inaugurated two specialized buildings in 2009 and 2015. Today, Hublot continues to operate as a prominent Swiss manufacture, maintaining its reputation for being “first, unique, and different” through its ongoing commitment to material innovation and bold horological design.
