Glycine is a historic Swiss watch manufacturer established in 1914 in Biel/Bienne, a city renowned as a central hub for the Swiss watchmaking industry. The company was founded by Eugène Meylan, an inventive watchmaker who was 23 years old at the time of the brand’s inception. Meylan, born in 1891 in Le Chenit, Switzerland, was a gifted student of the School of Arts Appliqués in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where he received top ratings for his early horological work.
In its formative years, Glycine specialized in the production of miniature movements for women’s timepieces. These early creations were often housed in luxurious cases made of precious metals like gold and platinum and adorned with gemstones. The brand’s commitment to precision and fine craftsmanship quickly earned it a favorable reputation among high-society clientele in Great Britain and the United States, establishing Glycine as a respected name in early 20th-century watchmaking.
A significant milestone in the brand’s history occurred in 1930 with the release of the first mass-produced automatic watches. This was made possible by the development of the EMSA (Eugène Meylan Société Anonyme) module, a self-winding mechanism patented by Meylan. This innovation allowed existing manual-wound movements to be converted into automatic ones, a technological advancement that helped the company remain viable during the global economic depression of the 1930s.
The brand’s most iconic contribution to horology arrived in 1953 with the introduction of the Glycine Airman. Developed at the request of British pilot Chat Brown, the Airman was specifically designed to meet the needs of military and commercial aviators. It featured a unique 24-hour dial and a rotating bezel that allowed for the tracking of two different time zones simultaneously, setting a standard for GMT and pilot watches that remains relevant today.
The Airman’s reputation for durability and functionality was further cemented through its association with space exploration. During the 1960s, NASA astronaut Pete Conrad, an avid fan of the brand, wore a Glycine Airman during the Gemini 5 and Gemini 11 missions. The watch’s ability to withstand the extreme pressures of space flight and return to Earth in perfect working order highlighted the brand’s engineering prowess and earned it a permanent place in aviation and space history.
In 1967, Glycine expanded its professional offerings with the launch of the Combat collection. While the Airman was designed for the skies, the Combat series was developed to serve the military and sports realms on land. Utilizing EPSA Compressor cases for enhanced water resistance and robustness, the Combat line introduced the same seconds-hacking mechanism found in the Airman, becoming the brand’s second oldest and most enduring collection.
During the “quartz crisis” of the 1970s, Glycine adapted by introducing battery-operated models, including digital watches with LED screens. However, the brand eventually refocused on its heritage of mechanical watchmaking. Today, enthusiasts value Glycine for its ability to offer authentic Swiss-made mechanical movements, high-quality materials such as sapphire crystals, and a rich history at a more accessible price point than many other traditional luxury brands.
Beyond the flagship Airman and Combat lines, other notable historical pieces include the Glycine Vacuum, introduced in 1959. This model featured a vacuum-sealed case that eliminated humidity and dust, thereby reducing oxidation and improving the longevity and accuracy of the movement. Another key piece is the Airman SST, launched in 1967 and inspired by supersonic transport aircraft, known for its tonneau-shaped case and vibrant orange dial.
In 2016, Glycine was acquired by the Invicta Watch Group. Despite this change in ownership, the brand continues to operate out of its headquarters in Biel/Bienne, maintaining its Swiss-made manufacturing standards. The acquisition has provided Glycine with the resources to expand its global reach while continuing to produce timepieces that are predicated on the original vision of innovation and precision established by Eugène Meylan over a century ago.
Modern collectors are drawn to Glycine for its transparency, reliability, and historical significance. The brand is often cited as a “chameleon” in the watch world, as its designs can easily transition from professional tools to elegant accessories with a simple change of a strap. By maintaining its focus on functional excellence rather than high-cost marketing, Glycine remains a respected choice for both emerging collectors and seasoned horological enthusiasts.
