Glycine is a historic Swiss watchmaker that has maintained a continuous presence in the horological world since its establishment in 1914. Founded by Eugène Meylan in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland, the brand was born in the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry. Meylan, an ambitious and ingenious watchmaker, initially focused the company’s efforts on specialized, high-quality miniature movements for ladies’ watches, often housed in precious metals like gold and platinum.
The brand’s identity is deeply rooted in technical innovation and functional design. In 1930, Glycine achieved a significant milestone by releasing one of the first mass-produced automatic watches, followed by the patenting of the EMSA automatic module in 1931. This commitment to engineering excellence helped the brand survive the challenges of the mid-20th century, including the transition of its leadership to Charles Hertig Sr. in 1943.
Enthusiasts and collectors are drawn to Glycine for its authentic heritage, particularly its long-standing association with aviation and the military. The brand is highly regarded for offering “Swiss mastery without the price gouging,” providing mechanical timepieces with high-end specifications—such as sapphire crystals and robust Swiss movements—at a more accessible price point than many of its luxury competitors. This reputation for reliability and value has made the brand a staple for those seeking professional-grade tool watches.
The most iconic piece in the Glycine catalog is undoubtedly the Airman. Debuted in 1953, the Airman was a pioneer in the industry, featuring a 24-hour analog dial and a rotating bezel that allowed pilots to track multiple time zones. Its functional importance was cemented during the Vietnam War, where it was a favorite among U.S. Air Force pilots, and it even traveled into space on the wrist of astronaut Pete Conrad during the Gemini 5 and Gemini 11 missions.
Another cornerstone of the brand is the Combat collection, introduced in 1967. Designed to honor “land troopers,” the Combat series is characterized by its rugged durability and military-inspired aesthetics. Within this line, the Combat Sub has become a modern favorite, known for its slim profile despite its high water resistance and divers’ watch specifications. Other notable collections that round out the brand’s offerings include the vintage-inspired Sea Kraken and the versatile Airpilot series, all of which continue to emphasize the brand’s Swiss-made reliability.
