Auricoste is a storied French watchmaking house with a legacy dating back to the mid-19th century. The company was founded in 1854 by Emile Thomas, a Parisian watchmaker who specialized in the development of marine chronometers. In 1889, Joseph Auricoste took over the enterprise from Thomas, subsequently renaming the brand after himself. Based in Paris, the maison quickly established a reputation for precision and reliability, earning gold medals at the Paris World Exhibitions in 1889 and 1900.
The brand is deeply respected by enthusiasts and collectors primarily for its long-standing historical ties to the French military. For over a century, Auricoste has served as an official supplier to the French Navy (Marine Nationale) and the French Air Force. This heritage of providing robust “measuring instruments” for professional use—ranging from aircraft carriers like the Charles de Gaulle to combat divers—has cemented its status as a premier manufacturer of functional tool watches. People are drawn to the brand’s ability to maintain its rigorous military specifications and Parisian craft while transitioning into the civilian market.
Key pieces from Auricoste’s catalog include the legendary Type 20 Flyback Chronograph, which was developed in the 1950s following a specific mandate from the French Ministry of Defense for its pilots. Another cornerstone of the brand is the Spirotechnique, a professional diving watch waterproof to 300 meters that was famously utilized by the French Navy’s elite divers and explorers such as Jacques Cousteau. Modern iterations, such as the SM300 and the Flymaster Type 20, continue to use Swiss mechanical movements from Dubois Depraz, ETA, and Sellita, ensuring that the watches remain as dependable as the historical instruments that inspired them.
