The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier debuted in 1922 and is named after Louis Cartier, who had created the original Tank in 1917. It refines the first design with subtly rounded edges and a softer profile while keeping its geometric precision, and is often described as the definitive Tank. Its elongated rectangular case runs into parallel vertical brancards that incorporate the lugs, framing a symmetrical dial with Roman numerals around a chemin de fer chapter ring, and the crown is set with a pointed sapphire cabochon. Most vintage examples have white dials with black numerals. A 1970s 18k yellow gold example sold by Phillips measures 23 mm wide by 30.5 mm long and uses a manually wound 17-jewel calibre 78-1.

The Tank Louis Cartier became the Tank of choice for generations of famous wearers. Rudolph Valentino wore a Tank in the 1926 film The Son of the Sheik, which helped make it a Hollywood favourite, and Andy Warhol famously said “I don’t wear a Tank watch to tell the time.” Princess Diana is also associated with the Tank Louis. Production of the Tank family stayed small for decades: fewer than 6,000 Tanks were made and sold from the first one until 1969. For the Tank’s centenary in 2017, Cartier released seven Tank Louis Cartier versions in two sizes with the mechanical calibre 8971 MC.

Critics and collectors see the Tank Louis Cartier as the purest expression of the Tank. Watch expert Franco Cologni counted the Tank among his “Very Important Objects”, and Sotheby’s calls the Louis Cartier the definitive version of the design. Rare vintage examples can far exceed estimates: the black lacquer dial 1970s piece shown here, an unusual variant likely made as a special commission, sold at Phillips New York for $83,820 against an estimate of $15,000 to $30,000. Its widespread imitation, from cheaper brands copying its look, is a measure of its influence. The original 1922 production is long finished, but the Tank Louis Cartier remains in production today in several sizes and materials as one of Cartier’s signature collections.